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Meet The Voyageuses
Each month, Voyageuses highlights a "Creative Traveler" inspired by crafts or cultures from here and elsewhere.
In Patagonia
What a discovery. The region of El Calafate and El Chaltén is truly the end of the world: the seemingly endless Ruta 40, the ever-present wind, snow-capped peaks in the distance, lakes of an almost unreal turquoise blue… and every now and then, an isolated estancia battered by the elements, where you can drop your bags before exploring all those iconic landmarks — the Perito Moreno glacier, Mount Fitz Roy…
A note: the small towns of El Calafate and El Chaltén developed around the glaciers and the hiking trails towards Mount Fitz Roy. Their appeal lies less in the villages themselves than in the landscapes that surround them, with some very lovely hotels nearby to stay in.
A hotel in El Calafate: El Galpón del Glaciar, a real estancia turned hotel, located 20 minutes from town on the shore of Lago Argentino. Sweeping views as far as the eye can see, horses and sheep. A very beautiful spot with a good restaurant for dinner, and horseback rides available to explore the surroundings. Nearby, the port is the departure point for boat trips to the glaciers, including the Perito Moreno, which we discovered with Hielo Aventura — a very professional company.
A shop in El Calafate: La Cruz del Sur, for a fine selection of gaucho boots and hats, and Mapuche crafts — one of Patagonia's indigenous peoples.
A restaurant in El Calafate: Mako, on the higher end, serving succulent meats and good local wine in a sophisticated setting.
A hotel in El Chaltén: Estancia Bonanza is a dream spot, with views over Fitz Roy. Think corrugated-iron cabins with great comfort inside, a delicious breakfast and a set-menu dinner in a charming dining room.
When to go? Early March, which falls at the end of summer in Argentina, was ideal — though you still needed to wrap up a little!
Buenos Aires and San Antonio de Areco
In Buenos Aires:
A restaurant: Parrilla La Brigada. Although very touristy, this institution is still frequented by the Porteños themselves. People come for the excellent grilled meats, the warm atmosphere and the unchanged décor, where Argentine football is celebrated everywhere.
Apartment rental: Lodge Porteño, ideally located in Palermo Soho, offers lovely apartments with a rooftop. A very practical base for discovering the city on foot, right in the heart of a lively neighbourhood full of cafés, restaurants and boutiques.
Shopping: Even if you don't ride horses, push open the door of Arandu. The shop displays alone are worth the visit. Boots, belts, leather goods, equestrian accessories… everything is presented with an eye for detail that rivals Ralph Lauren or Hermès. And at Josefina Estrella, you'll find a beautiful and elegant selection of objects and accessories made by local artisans.
In San Antonio de Areco:
A hotel: Antigua Casona B&B, a characterful house full of charm, ideally located for exploring the village on foot.
A museum: Museo Draghi, housed in a magnificent historic mansion. Renowned for its silversmithing workshop, it celebrates the traditional craft of silverwork, deeply intertwined with gaucho culture.
Shopping: Casa Guerrico, a wonderful address for bringing home a poncho, a leather belt or riding trousers, all inspired by traditional gaucho dress.
Are you a traveling designer?
Do you create accessories, objects, and clothing inspired by local and international crafts?
Describe your creations to me, send me photos, your website, your Instagram account...