Each month, Voyageuses highlights a "Creative Traveler" inspired by crafts or cultures from here and elsewhere.

Félicie, a Voyageuse in Patagonia, Argentina
 

What a discovery. The region around El Calafate and El Chaltén truly feels like the end of the world: the endless Ruta 40, the ever-present wind, snow-capped peaks in the distance, almost unreal turquoise lakes… and, from time to time, an isolated estancia weathering the elements, where you can settle in before exploring some of Patagonia’s most iconic landmarks, such as the Perito Moreno Glacier and Mount Fitz Roy.

It is worth noting that the small towns of El Calafate and El Chaltén have developed primarily around glacier excursions and hiking routes to Mount Fitz Roy. Their appeal lies less in the towns themselves than in the extraordinary landscapes that surround them, as well as the beautiful hotels scattered throughout the area.

A hotel in El Calafate: El Galpón del Glaciar, a genuine estancia turned hotel, located about 20 minutes from town on the shores of Lake Argentino. Endless landscapes, horses, sheep, and a wonderful sense of space. A charming place with a very good restaurant for dinner, as well as horseback rides to explore the surrounding countryside. Nearby is the port from which boats depart for the glaciers, including Perito Moreno, which we visited with Hielo Aventura, a highly professional company.

A shop in El Calafate: La Cruz del Sur, offering a beautiful selection of gaucho boots and hats, along with Mapuche handicrafts. The Mapuche are one of Patagonia’s indigenous peoples.

A restaurant in El Calafate: Mako, a refined restaurant serving excellent Argentine beef and fine local wines in an elegant setting.

A hotel in El Chaltén: Estancia Bonanza is a dreamlike retreat with breathtaking views of Fitz Roy. The accommodations resemble traditional corrugated-metal cabins yet offer every comfort. Expect a delicious breakfast and a set-menu dinner served in a charming dining room full of character.

When to go?
Early March, which corresponds to the end of the Argentine summer, was ideal. That said, you should still pack some warm layers—the Patagonian wind never really takes a day off.